Paints for Ceilings and Walls

Dry, Unpainted Cement and Plaster Finishes

These absorbent surfaces can be difficult and expensive to paint - it takes more effort to drag the brush or roller across the surface, and most of the paint will be sucked into the material, rather than form a film on top. Avoid these problems by using a primer sealer, or diluting the first coat of emulsion with up to 10% water (follow the manufacturer's recommendations).

Brand New Plasterwork

You can buy paint that's specifically for plaster, which allows the surface to breathe. Don't use standard vinyl emulsion, as it creates a film that prevents the plaster from drying out completely.

Previously Painted or Papered Surfaces

These are usually given one of the following finishes:

Silk Emulsion

Reflects light, is resistant to scuffs, and can be sponged clean. Suitable for most walls, although imperfections will be more conspicuous.

Soft-Sheen and Mid-Sheen Emulsions

Found in ranges for kitchens and bathrooms, they have more reflective finishes.

Matt Emulsion

Despite its name, this is sometimes very slightly light-reflective. Good for hiding minor imperfections and suitable for ceilings and for walls in low-traffic areas.

Flat Emulsion

Sometimes called flat matt. A non-reflective finish that covers well and hides blemishes. Good for ceilings but marks easily on walls.

Decorative Effects

These are for sponging, ragging, and so on. Some have metallic finishes. Most are two-paint systems (which you buy together) - an undercoat followed by a topcoat. Follow the instructions.

Textured Finishes

These include masonry paint with sand in it. Good for disguising poor plasterwork. The preparation required is similar to that for other painting tasks but you must remove wallpaper and mask adjacent surfaces, as splashes are hard to remove once they've dried.